11/23/2023 0 Comments Bus beem tubeI took two of the adjustable tie rods and cut 2 inches off the end with the right hand threaded tie rod and retapped the tube 14mm x 1.5, slotted the end like the original and reinstalled the tie rod. You will need to shorten your tie rods to match your beam. Reinstall your trailing arms and grub screws to the right torque. The ball joint beams are approx 2.5 inches OD. It won’t need as much work done if your building a king pin beam because the tube OD is approx 2.30 inches and the adjusters are made for a 2 inch bug beam. Another way is to grind the outer, back edges until it sit nicely against the beam. One way is to heat it up and flatten it out in a vise a little. Now take your large half of your avis adjusters and they will need to be modified to fit the larger bus beam. Okay so 14 3/8” and 16 3/8” equals 30 ¾” so I have gone 4 inches total from 34 ¾” now you have to slice the center tube section to remove the torsion retainer but don’t cut too deep. They are where they need to be in reference to the outer end of the tubes. The reason I do it this way is so I don’t have to mess with the inner bearing locations. Take these cuts from the center of the tube and not the ends. I then cut the other end of the tube to 14 3/8”. I cut the tube in half at 16 3/8” making sure not to cut through the center torsion retainer. Mine was 34 ¾” so minus 4 “ is 30 ¾” Since I want the weld off center by 1” I divided 30 ¾” by 2 which makes 15 3/8” then added 1” from one side of the tube and subtract 1” from the other end. I wanted 4 inches narrower so I measured the overall length of the original tube. In order to have the center weld off center you must calculate how narrow you want your beam and offset the weld by at least one inch. Someone explained that the stamped structure of the side flange is where the narrowing takes place and when I climbed under my bus to look at the beam again after so many years the light came on. However I was confused because I thought how in the world do you shorten the axle without cutting the frame of the bus. I had done a disc brake conversion on my 70 Sportsmobile and knew the anatomy of a beam and how it attached to the bus. When I first heard of narrowing a beam I had a little experience with the bus front end. I will say that I am not responsible for anyone building their own beam and that you do this at your own risk. There are a lot of other people here on Samba with a lot of experience in this matter and can give tips and other ways of doing this so don’t feel like you have to follow this guide to the T. I must say that this is merely how I have done it and that there are other methods that are just as correct too. Also the mounting bolt pattern changed in 1970 so that also must be considered. I cut my side plates to fit the ball joint tube which are larger in diameter and further apart than the 67 earlier king pin beams. Ball joints weren’t standard on buses until 1968. For instance I am running a ball joint narrowed beam in my 59. However I would like to say upfront that you must plan for the type of setup you want to run. The beams are so similar that there are only a few differences between the king pin and ball joint beams. This is a tutorial on narrowing a bus beam with avis adjusters for both split and bay buses. Posted: Tue 7:22 am Post subject: How to build a narrowed adjustable Bus beam (tutorial) Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top How to build a narrowed adjustable Bus beam (tutorial)
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